From: SadieRose@aol.com
Subject: Book Source
Featherweight Dittos! VBG!
In response to a question from 9-29-95:
"Featherweight 221: the Perfect Portable" by Nancy Johnson-Srebro is
available by mail order from the Quilter's Bookshelf 1-800-332-6095
$6.95 plus shipping. They also list 2 other books: "Toy and Miniature
Sewing Machines" by Glenda Thomas for $18.95 and "Antique American
Sewing Machines: A Value Guide" by James W. Slaten for $19.95. I don't
have either of these last two books. If anyone else does, I would like to
hear your opinions. I have no affiliation with this company, just a
satisfied customer. Ask for a copy of the catalog, if you order, its a great
reference.
I think I have also seen FW 221... in the Keepsake Quilter's catalog, and
also either the Clothilde or Nancy's Notions catalogs. Some enlightened
quilt shops also carry it.
----------------------------
From: Gqminldy@aol.com
Subject: Re: Books, etc...
I have 2 books on antique machines that Susan and the group might be
interested in.
One is called Antique American Sewing Machines by James Slaten. Lots of info
and pictures, published by Singer Dealer Museum, 3400 Park Blvd, Oakland, CA
94610.
The other is The Sewing Machine: It's Invention and Development by Grace
Rogers Cooper. Tons of info and wonderful pictures, published by Smithsonian
Institution Press, Washington, D.C.
----------------------------
From: Jgm1011@aol.com
Subject: Re: FW Fanatics Digest 10/4/95
I have two wonderful books on sewing machines - one is the history and the
other is a repair manual for various models. The only problem is they're not
mine, I only borrowed them from the library and I have grave doubts that I
would ever be able to find them for sale. The historical one is called
Sincere's History of the Sewing Machine, published by Sincere Press, P.O.Box
10422, Phoenix, AZ 85016, c.1970. It isn't only about Singer machines,
unfortunately, but has a lot about them because one of the authors was a
Singer salesman from 1933 until after WWII. It's really interesting to hear
his comments about the introduction of European and Japaneses machines in the
U.S. at that time. He basically says the European models offered Zigzags at
the same price as straight stitch American machines and the Japanese sold
their machines for half the price of domestic ones.The introduction strongly
recommends the Smithsonian publication " The Invention of the Sewing Machine"
by Grace Cooper - is this the one you refer to , Gordy?
The other book on repairs is called Sincere's Sewing Machine Service Book,
same publisher, c.1968. This has really detailed information about all kinds
of machines from the long shuttle, class 15, class 66, even zigzag machines.
It has the machines broken down by parts and a lot of the info is pretty
technical, but helpful.
Hope this info helps some of you. If you have anything you'd like me to
look up in either book, just let me know (at least for the next month while I
have them). Sue M.
----------------------------
From: BSPAULDING@CSTCC.CC.TN.US
Subject: Wonderful old book by Singer . . . .
I haunt bookstores that carry old, used, tattered books. Love the things.
Addicted to 'em. I look especially for old sewing and housekeeping books.
I have here a book I bought some time ago--I thinnk I paid a dollar or two
for it--that I wouldn't give up for anything! However, I will be glad to
look up things for my best friends--the ones who like old Singers and FWs.
"Machine Sewing; A Treatise on the Care and Use of Family Sewing Machines
and Their Attachments, specially prepared for teachers of home economics."
Published by Singer Sewing Machine Co., Inc., Singer Building, New York,
copyright 1923, revised June 1930.
the Chapters are:
1. General instructions for the care and operation of family sewings.
2. Stitch formation by the varioys types of singer machines most commonly
used (note: all four types, with clear drawings and pictures of the mechanisms
and their threading.)
3. The binder and its many uses as applied to family sewing
4. The foot hemmer and the adjustable hemmer
5. The practical use of the tucker
6. The ruffler
7. Special labor-saving attchments for sewing machines
8. Electric machines, motors and lights
9. The "student" model Singer electric.
Folks, it's all here! Everything you ever wanted to know about your old
Singer and some you didn't want to know.
Nothing about the Featherweight, of course.
----------------------------
From: gjones@ccnet.com (Gordon D. Jones)
Subject: Misc FW notes
There is a catalog called "A Stitch Back in Time" that will be of interest
to most of you FWFantics. This catalog has sewing collectibles, books, and
gift items. It contains books about antique sewing machines, including
Nancy Johnson-Srebro "Featherweight 221, The Perfect Portable", two books
on toy machines, and many others. It contains some parts for straight
stitch sewing machines, such as bobbin cases for the FW 221, $72(Kim take
note), long bobbins for Singer 27, 127 ($.75), pressure feet for various
machines, etc. It contains accessories, such as leather belt for treadle
machines, "Ruby" automatic zigzagger and "Ruby" buttonhole attachment. It
also list needles for various old machines. Also has the #1712 (pink)
belts, $4.50. Pat is your spare belt a tan or pink toothed belt, probably
a 1712 Bando belt.
Penney Gurrola runs the business, and has recently moved to Texas, so I
don't have the new address, but her phone no. is 1-800-352-1174. I just
talked to her this morning to get permission to post her number so know its
correct. Just give her a call and request a catalog.
For those of you that want to know about toy sewing machines, heres the
book for you: "Toy and Miniature Sewing Machines, An Identification $ Value
Guide", by Glenda Thomas. This is a beautiful book, large format, with 531
color pictures, over 250 pages, 50 pictures of just Singer toy machines.
Copyright:1995
May be ordered from:
Collector Books
P.O.Box 3009
Paducah, Kentucky 42002-3009
@$18.95. Add $2.00 for postage and handling.
----------------------------
From: JGodwin552@aol.com
Subject: Miscellaneous
I have the "Toy & Miniature Sewing Machines" book by Glenda Thomas and I
lovelooking at the pictures and collecting
these little treasures. Gordy gave
you the address and I thought I'd also post the telephone number for you
also: 1-800-626-5420 , hours are Mon-Fri 7:00am to 5:00pm CST, the item
number for this particular book is 3892 but they will know what you're
talking about. :-)
----------------------------
From: gjones@ccnet.com (Gordon D. Jones)
Subject: A Stitch Back In Time
I now have the address and phone no. for A Stitch Back In Time. Here it is:
A Stitch Back In Time
3815 50th St. #41
Lubbock, TX 79413
806-749-0966
800-352-1174
Gordy
----------------------------
Subject: Responses
From: Terry ragdoll@initco.net
Sue M.: Here is the 'map' to get to the used sewing machine books. It
seems to be a good place to request a book search also. Start on the WW
Quilting Page. Find QUILT BOOK REVIEWS and click it on. Scroll down and
find PUBLISHING COMPANIES & DISCOUNT BOOKS and click. Find HARD-TO-FIND
NEEDLEWORK BOOKS and click it on and that's it! Just read this page and you
should find all the info. What did we ever do before WWQP???
Caitlin: Unfortunately the Smithsonian book only covers American mfg.
machines but thought you'd like to know that two machines named Reynolds
were manufactured here; one by White Sewing Machine Co. and the other by
Free S.M.Co. Carol Head, author of OLD SEWING MACHINES (published in UK by
Shire Pub. Ltd.) has an extensive collection of machines and may be a source
of information.
----------------------------
From: Dawn Scotting pandora@kcbbs.gen.nz
Subject: A few old books.....
I went to visit the homepage on old hard-to-find books that Terry was
telling us about and found a few that someone might be interested in.
Darn it, I forgot to write down the info on where to order these books
from but I can always find it again if anyone needs it.
All prices quoted are in US dollars.
Machine Sewing: Treatise on the Care and Use of Singer, '55,
Teacher's textbook, 221 pages, specially prepared for teachers of Home
Economics
(8470) $30.00
Operating Manual: straight stitch sewing machine, (no trade name
mentioned), '65, 32 pages
(17394) $7.00
Official Price Guide to Sewing Collectibles, Clement. House of
Collectibles, paper, '87, 328 pages, buttons, thimbles, historical
facts, buying tips, guide to museums, sewing collectibles. $9.95
My Bernina Guide, model 830 and 831, 66 pages, illustrated manual
(17444) $8.00
Necchi Model BO, Instructions and Maintenance Guide, 93 pages, 1951,
fully illustrated
(13645) $15.00
Machine Sewing, Singer, 1930, 158 pages, a treatise on the care and use
of family sewing machines and their attachments, New York, cover
slightly worn, otherwise good text
(2596) $25.00
Know Your Pfaff Hobbylock by Baker and Young, Chilton Books, paper, 192
pages, 8 in color, go with two experts in serging beyond the basics.
Confidence building lessons, Creative serging options in a machine
specific format ideas for the busy sewer
(12288) $17.95
Know Your Sewing Machine, Dodson. Chilton, '88, paper, how many ways
can you change to fabric with a machine: answered with 12 chapters and
39 step by step lessons, fully illustrated, published at $12.95,
now $4.50
(6466)
Know Your Elna by Dodson with Ahles, Chilton, paper, 224 pages, authors
have perfected hundreds of techniques, features a whole chapter on
popular French handsewing
(9972) $14.95
Know Your Pfaff by Dodson with Griese, Chilton, '89, 224 pages, paper,
precision stitching is a breeze with this book, authors tell how to
combine automatic decorative and utility stitches for truly original
results
(9973) $14.95
Instructions for Operating the Singer Portable Electric Sewing Machine
No. 128-13, Attachments 120604, with Knee Control, lock stitch for
family use, 1934, 36 pages
(13650) $16.00
Instructions for Operating the Singer Portable Electric Sewing Machine
by No 99-13, attachments 120360 with knee control, lock stitch for
family use, 48 pages, 1925, illustrated, with original bobbin
(13651) $16.00
Instructions for Use and Care of Domestic Rotary Electric Sewing
Machines, Model Number 151, 25 pages, writing in booklet indicates
machine was purchased in 1951
(13643) $15.00
Instructions for the Care and Use of the Necchi Model BU, '49, 39
illustrated pages, world's finest sewing machine
(1337) $15.00
Instructions for Operating the Franklin Sewing Machine by Sears Roebuck
and Co., 32 pages, fully illustrative
(13644) $28.00
Cheers....Dawn
----------------------------
From: Sweigak@aol.com
Subject: A Capitolist Romance
I just finished reading a book called A Capitolist Romance by a Ruth ?, sorry
I don't remember her last name. Anyway it is a biography of Isaac Merrit
Singer, a mechanical genius but morally bankrupt. Interesting reading. Check
your local library if you are interested. I am sure this is where the info in
the TIME article came from.
----------------------------
From: Dawn Scotting pandora@kcbbs.gen.nz
Subject: More bits and pieces
>Where did you order this book? I WANT ONE!!!
Machine Sewing: Treatise on the Care and Use of Singer, '55, Teacher's
textbook, 221 pages, specially prepared for teachers of Home Economics
(8470) $30.00
Machine Sewing, Singer, 1930, 158 pages, a treatise on the care and use
of family sewing machines and their attachments, New York, cover
slightly worn, otherwise good text (2596) $25.00
Order from:
Betty Feinstein
Hard-to-find Needlework Books
96 Roundwood Rd
Newton, MA 02164-1217
617 969-0942 Tel/Fax
Email: feinstein@umbsky.cc.umb.edu
or needlewk@tiac.net
She takes Visa or Mastercard
Eileen wrote:
>I found in an antique shop. They were published in the twenties and
>thirties and the titles are "How to Make Draperies", How to Make
>Dresses", How to Make Children's Clothes", and "Short Cuts to Home
>Sewing". The latter has quite a bit about attachments that seem very
>similar to the ones for the FW, but obviously pre-date it. They are
Found this one in Betty's hard to find book list, it's not from the
20's but it could be something similar:
Sewing Skills Reference Book by Singer, 1954. 52 pages, machine
principles, stitching for line, contour, fashion stitches (18803) $12
and another three I haven't posted before:
Singer #32-64 by Singer Manfg, 1942. 16 page booklet illustrating parts
of machine by numbers, no text. (13640) $14
Singer Sewing Book by Picken, 1949, cloth, dust jacket, 288 pages, over
1000 easy to follow diagrams (9779) $12.50
Slant-o-matic 401 by Singer, 1958, paper, 96 pages, instruction manual
(16047) $10
----------------------------
From: BobbinCase@aol.com
Subject: Open Mouth, Insert Foot
You collectors might be interested in getting your own Blue Book, to date
machines. Dealers are notorious for not sharing theirs. I am new to this
list, but in case this information has not been posted recently, here it is:
The Sewing Machine Blue Book comes out every two years.The last one was for
94/95, so you might want to call and inquire when the new one will be
available for sale. I use mine all the time to date and appraise machines I
see in the Classified section. (just out of curiosity, mostly) Price for the
94/95 Blue Book was $7.50, including shipping. Here's the address:
Bobette Industries
167 Elizabeth Street N.E.
Atlanta, GA 30307-2557
Phone: (404) 880-9400
Fax: (404) 880-4103
----------------------------
Subject: Singer Model List - v1.0
From: dawn@pandoras.gen.nz (Dawn Scotting)
For Sale: from Betty's hard-to-find book list:
(Betty Feinstein 617 969-0942 Tel/Fax)
Latest Acquisitions-November 1995
Capitalist Romance: Singer the Sewing Machine, Brandon $35.00
Celebrating the Stitch, Smith $34.95
One-of-a-Kind Books
History of the Sewing Machine, Parton, 1867, $100.00
----------------------------
From: MEPT56A@prodigy.com (MS NAOMI R GORING)
Subject: Sewing Machine Books
If you have a serious interest in older machines, it's worth getting
a copy of the Sewing Machine Blue Book. You can buy the 1994-95
edition from Robbie Fanning's Open Chain Publishing, P.O. Box 2634-NL,
Menlo Park, CA 94026-2634, phone number (415) 366-4440. It costs $20,
post paid. It's basically a wholesale price guide for dealers, but
it has other good information about the years of manufacture, model
numbers and serial numbers of many machines. There are brief
descriptions of features and color of machines. One interesting section
gives the retail prices of various Singer models. In the mid-fifties
the Featherweight was selling for $88-$140, and the new Zigzag
model 401, was selling for the magnificent sum of $399. This is when
minimum wage was $1 per hour, or $40 per week. Interesting turn of events,
isn't it?
---------------------------
From: "PAULA RABKIN" (PRABKIN@EMAIL.USPS.GOV
Subject: Sewing Machine Blue Book price increase
I just telephoned Bobette Industries to double-check on the
availability of the exciting Sewing Machine Blue Book that Teri
mentioned in her November 11 posting. The books *are* available, but
the price i was quoted is $10.00 (not $7.50), including shipping and
handling. They won't take orders over the phone; you have to send
them a check.
For those who didn't get Teri's posting, the address is:
Bobette Industries
167 Elizabeth Street NE
Atlanta GA 30307-2557
----------------------------
Date: 25 Nov 95 12:45:58 EST
From: "Shirley E. Senitza" (73002.1442@compuserve.com)
Subject: VARIOUS FW & SINGER THOUGHTS
Regarding the "Sewing Machine Blue Book" published by Bobette Industries...it is
a great little booklet for any serious (and semi-serious) machine collector, but
please be aware of the copyright protection statement printed on one of it's
very first pages--we need to be careful to honor that in anything we FWFs print
here. I am not associated with the publisher in any way, but we do need to be
aware of their rights, for everyone's protection. So, I really do urge
everyone to purchase their own copy, from the sources previously posted. You
will be glad to have your own copy!
----------------------------
Date: Thu, 30 Nov 1995 23:39:49 -0500
From: Courtvo@aol.com
Subject: Carter Bays book
I have a copy of Carter-Bays book, The Encyclopedia of Early American Sewing
Machines. It is an excellant book for collectors of treadle and hand
operated sewing machines. He devotes 20 pages to the development of the
sewing machine; the inventors, Howe, Singer, Wilson and Grover; and the
Sewing Machine Combination. The bulk of the book covers sewing machine
manufacturers from 1850 - 1880 with lots and lots of drawings and photos.
There are 31 pages of photos of toy sewing machines. 5 pages are devoted to
metal, wood, and veneer restoration. His serial number dating chart covers
12 manufacturers but covers only 1850 - 1876.
As I said, it is a great book for antique sewing machine collectors but it
does not cover any electric machines. The FW is way too modern for this
book.
Another good book for treadle collectors is Antique American Sewing Machines,
A Value Guide by James A. Slaten (ISBN 0-9632287-0-6) paperback, about $25.
While not as extensive as the Carter Bays book, it is a good handbook. The
treadles pictured are late 1800s and early 1900s. I almost fills in where
Carter Bays stops. The FW is listed fondly as the "last but not least". The
FW is the only electric listed in Slaten's book.
----------------------------
Subject: More FW ramblings....
From: dawn@pandoras.gen.nz (Dawn Scotting)
Date: Sun, 03 Dec 95 20:46:57 +1200
Photos of Singer/old/antique sewing machines in Books/Magazines
---------------------------------------------------------------
Australian Houses in Patchwork by Margaret Rolfe & Beryl Hodges - page
18, beautiful Singer treadle and cabinet. (dawn@pandoras.gen.nz)
Australian Patchwork & Quilting magazine Vol 1 No 4 - page 37, black FW.
(dawn@pandoras.gen.nz)
Australian Patchwork & Quilting magazine 1995 annual - page 24, 3 black
toy/miniature machines one of which is a very ornate treadle.
ditto page 54 - antique hand-cranked machine.
ditto page 70 - old black machine in background of a woman sewing on a
modern machine (philistine!).
ditto page 76 - part of an old black Bernina. (dawn@pandoras.gen.nz)
Better Homes & Gardens Applique 1978 - page 61, appliqued Singer machine
quilt, model 15- (?), excellent close up very detailed picture
(quilt made by Jerdee 1976). (dawn@pandoras.gen.nz)
Lady's Circle Patchwork Quilts July 1995 issue #105 - white & black FW's.
Lady's Circle Patchwork Quilts Oct 1995 issue #107 - machines in the
Antique Sewing Machine Museum of Arlington, Texas.
(ragdoll@initco.net)
New Ideas For Lap Quilting by Georgia Bonesteel - page 4, toy Singer
circa early 1900's (carl@epix.net & calypsew@aol.com)
QNM July/Aug 1985 #171 - page 21, two photos of Judy Martin in her
studio with her FW. (dawn@pandoras.gen.nz)
QNM Feb 1988 #199 - page 30, reproduction of an old advertisement from
1876, for the 'NEW Wilcox & Gibbs Automatic Silent Sewing Machine,
includes picture. (dawn@pandoras.gen.nz)
QNM Sept 1994 #265 - page 31, B&W picture of old treadle and
table/cabinet. (dawn@pandoras.gen.nz)
Scrap Patchwork and Quilting by Marti Michell - page 100, hand crank
Singer portable. (sweigak@aol.com)
----------------------------
Date: Thu, 7 Dec 1995 22:29:38 -0500
From: SadieRose@aol.com
Subject: FW Literary Sightings
Greetings, FW Fans!
Here are three books which feature Featherweights in photographs:
Working in Miniature by Becky Schaefer pub by C & T 1987
on the cover, and also in the author's photo, page 59
Lessons In Machine Piecing by Marsha McCloskey pub by That
Patchwork Place 1990, on the cover and also pages 21 & 23
Celebrate with Little Quilts! by Berg, Von Holt & Johnson, pub 1995
by That Patchwork Place, shows a FW in a scene with their Little Quilts
on pg 18.
Doreen Speckmann, in her book Pattern Play, pub by C & T, 1993, gives
FW's an endorsement in her 'supplies' section: :
"Sewing Machine: Contrary to the sales pitch, you do NOT need a
state-of-the-art sewing machine. Any machine with a good straight
stitch will make beautiful patchwork. For thirteen years I made
every quilt (and most of my clothing) on a Singer 201 machine
that only goes forward and backward and was last made in 1955. Its
little sister, the Singer 221 Featherweight, is well known as a
good machine to piece with...."
Nancy Johnson-Srebro, in her 1990 book Miniatures to Masterpiece,
states: "In the Introduction, I explained that I do all my piecing
with an older White sewing machine. My students and friends use
everything from vintage Singers to the ultra modern machines that
are on the market. Good results can be had with all of them. ..."
In the Introduction, she explains that her husband bought her the
White machine for Christmas in 1971.
In her 1992 book, Timeless Treasures, Nancy used a FW for the photos
showing how to put tape on a machine for accurate quarter inch seams,
and sewing techniques: pages 52, 54-55. Which was then followed by her
Featherweight 221: The Perfect Portable later in 1992.
----------------------------
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 1996 00:18:39 +1300 (NZDT)
From: Dawn Scotting (pandora@kcbbs.gen.nz)
Subject: More ramblings from down under...
)In a used bookstore I found an old Better Homes and Garden Applique
)book with a pattern for an appliqued black Model 15 Singer with lots of
)detail. May have to try this. It even has gold scrollwork, silver on
)the edge of the hand wheel, and a plug and cord.
I have this book! I also have it listed in my 'list of mags with
pictures of antique sewing machines':-
Better Homes & Gardens Applique 1978 - page 61, appliqued Singer machine
quilt, model 15-, excellent close up very detailed picture
----------------------------
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 1995 12:48:16 -0500 (EST)
From: Kristina Santilla (santilla@umd5.umd.edu)
Subject: Re: FW Fanatics 12/30/95
Lydia: I saw a copy of the 1938 Machine Sewing: A treatise... at the
Library of Congress yesterday (Sorry Terri, I told you the wrong year).
It is about 8-1/2x5-1/2 and about 3/8 thick. It is typical Singer green.
This one was not spiral bound, but they reprinted it at least 7 or 8
times (I know 1955, 1958, 1953) and others might be different. This book
is a "must have".
----------------------------
Date: 31 Dec 95 14:31:45 EST
From: "Shirley E. Senitza" (73002.1442@compuserve.com)
Subject: MACHINE SEWING, A TREATISE...book stats
Dear FWF Friends,
Per Lydia Pratt's request, I have a 1948 copy of this Singer Home Economics
teacher's book, and I will be glad to provide identification information on it
to facilitate your looking for it in used book stores. It is hardbound, and the
color is a very dark green--probably more of a hunter green shade than an
avocado green. It has gold-gild lettering on the front cover and on the spine,
and just the simple block letters MACHINE SEWING (in dull gold gild lettering)
would be visible on a bookshelf. The cover says MACHINE SEWING within a fancy
scroll-work gold border and SINGER SEWING MACHINE COMPANY near the bottom of the
front cover. It is 8-3/8" high, 5/8" thick and 5-5/8" wide. It has 184 pages.
I believe Terry In Montana has a 1950 copy, so perhaps she will describe hers
too, so we can compare the appearance of the two different issues to see if they
are about the same. (This one cost $30, as I recall...a bit more than it's
original $1 cost. ;-/ )
I also have the (1941) STUDENT'S MANUAL OF MACHINE SEWING by Singer--the student
companion to the above described teacher's manual. I will describe it in case
you want to look for it, but it will be harder to spot, since it is much thinner
on a bookshelf. I would think fewer of the student books have survived, because
it is just a paperback booklet and undoubtedly received rougher handling. It is
also hunter green, but not as dark a green hue--about 3/4-color intensity of the
teacher's manual. No spine--just two staples hold it together. It measures
8-1/4" high by 5-1/2" wide and has 60 pages. The front cover has a black band
across the upper width of the cover (3-1/2" x 5-1/2") and the booklet title is
printed in green letters on this black box. That's a lot of description for one
little booklet, but maybe it will help you spot it. ($15 for this one.)
----------------------------
Subject: Naked Needles
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 95 19:59:12 -0500
From: Terry (ragdoll@initco.net)
The Machine Sewing - A Treatise book by Singer Sewing Machine Co. has 22
copyright dates up to 1950. Krisi has seen a 1953 version. Lydia, you're
smart to ask for a description because every used bookstore I shop I simply
scan the book spines for the following: Medium dark green with gold capital
letters MACHINE SEWING. It is 8 3/8 inches high and just under 5/8" thick.
The front cover says MACHINE SEWING with gold scrolling around it and SINGER
SEWING MACHINE COMPANY along the bottom (again green with gold lettering).
The back cover is blank (green). Remember this is the 1950 version and if
anyone else has one of these books that doesn't meet this description,
please let us know.
----------------------------
Subject: Books and Museums
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 95 21:10:39 -0500
From: Terry (ragdoll@initco.net)
Krisi,
I was just looking at the "Further Reading" and "Places to Visit" section in
a little booklet I have called Old Sewing Mchines by Carol Head. In case
you don't have this book, it suggests reading The Development, Construction
and Characteristics of the Sewing Machine byJ.B. Duncan, Singer Company (UK)
Ltd. Obviously it was published in Britain. Also she says to be sure and
visit Clydebank District Museum, Old Town Hall, Dumbarton Road, Clydebank.
Telephone: 041-952-8765 or 1416. "A local museum with a major collection of
over five hundred sewing machines, comprising a full range of Singer
Manufacturing Company models in addition to examples of most other British
and foreign manufacturers." She also thanks a Mr. Ray Batchelor, Clydebank
Library for his assistance and Singer Company (UK) Ltd.
Krisi, many museums in England publish books on the contents of their museum
in order to raise funds. Do you suppose the Clydebank District Museum does?
I was in England 18 months ago and was in a zillion museums in London, Bath,
and all over Cornwall and Devon. Just wish I'd paid more attention to the
sewing machines. Of course I admired them and even bought an antique toy
metal one for $15 US but I didn't pay as much attention as I would now.
I'll have to ask my son where Clydebank is. He spent two years in England
and loved visiting Scotland (where I assume Clydebank is).
The other books listed (all seem to be British publications):
Sewing Machines, K.R. Gilbert, HMSO, London, 1970
Veteran Sewing Machines, Brian F. Jewell, David and Charles, Newton Abbot,
1975
Collecting Mechanical Antiques, Ronald Pearsall, David and Charles, Newton
Abbot, 1973
Is there a source for British publications in Washington D.C.? Well, let me
know if I've told you anything you didn't know. You're usually way ahead of
me on these things. Sure is fun though.
----------------------------
Date: 27 Dec 95 07:27:18 EST
From: "Shirley E. Senitza" (73002.1442@compuserve.com)
Subject: Post-Christmas 301-Talk, Etc.
Ruth Allen commented about projects we are doing to use our various attachments.
One of the most mysterious attachments to me is the ruffler, so a couple days
ago I found a 32-page booklet called "Learning and Using Your Ruffler--Basic
Instructions and Projects" by Leota Black. It is a very informative and
well-illustrated booklet on this attachment and goes into skirt projects, sewing
ribbon, adding a facing, cafe curtains, ruffling around a corner, pleating and
on and on. It cost $10 at the Bernina dealer or you could probably order it
from Leota Black at Rt. 1, Box 117, Wheeler, TX 79096.
----------------------------
Date: Sat, 13 Jan 1996 15:10:06 -0500
From: CTislander@aol.com
Subject: Cranks, sewing book & boxes
MARY BROOK PICKEN'S book, Singer Sewing Book -- Terry
described her 1953 version for those who are looking for a
copy. My 1949 edition has a grey-beige [greige] cover and
maroon lettering where Terry's has turquoise.
----------------------------
Date: Mon, 15 Jan 1996 21:33:14 -0500
From: Httacl@aol.com
Subject: finding books
Dear Friends Well we had a sort of half-day off here and so in the afternoon
I skated out my driveway and visited two junk/book stores. At The Big
Chicken Barn found an old White Treadle in an elaborate oak cabinet - date
said 1906 - which when you lift the lid pulls the machine up. $195. Seems
like a lot to me, it looked in medium good shape, most of the gilt worn off.
They also had a few sewing and craft books - mostly 60's but they did have
The Singer Sewing Book (1949) by Mary Brooks Picken - hardcover - $5. This
is the one which instructs us in the proper attitude etc quoted hilariously
here by others. It is a gem. Then next on to The Book Barn which was
unheated - its hard to turn pages with your mittens on! This place was
unreal - almost a little spooky. Huge barn packed floor to ceiling plus
uncounted and uncountable boxes and bags full of books and books and books.
The fellow gave me a flashlight and then went back in the house through a
series of sheds past the cat pans and woodpile. He did seem to know his
inventory though and showed me where to look. He had Mending Made Easy
(1943) by Ms Picken in hard cover which I could not turn down for $2! To pay
him I was invited into the kitchen which was heated with a woodstove and also
full of bags and boxes of books. I felt like I had strayed into a Tennessee
Williams goes North screen play. We're talking so full everywhere you turn
that the paths are the negative space, all else being filled.
Since I hadn't spent hardly any money I stopped at the Big Chicken Barn
again on the way home (yes it was a chicken barn once, I remember it).
Bought a Sat. Evening Post 1952 with an ad for "the wonderful new White"
Shows wife in red bathrobe kissing hubbie in plaid bathrobe with sewing
machine cabinet between them with bow on it. Inset shows a picture of a
machine which I would call Godzilla if the name weren't already taken!
UGH-LY!! Dark green matte/stucco finish and sort of chunky looking. Looked
through some old Farm Journals too but no luck there except for the following
off-topic ad from 1931 - In large letters - "Did you know that LISTERINE
...removes loose dandruff?...ends scalp irritation?...sets a finger wave?
...combats oil condition?" Inset B&W photo of lady scrubbing her scalp with
her fingers. Lots of text which included the following instructions "Douse
it on full strength and massage the scalp vigorously. You will be delighted
with the results." Unless of course folks wrinkle up their nose and stare at
you curiously?
All in all an interesting afternoon - thanks to you folks I knew what to
look for and wasn't overwhelmed - just ccccoooold. Anybody going to
Williamsburg MAQF Feb 22-24? I am! Henrietta in Blue Hill Maine where we
are very grateful for heating oil - we far prefer it to a woodpile (which we
do also have for back-up) (Httacl@aol.com)
----------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 08:46:33 -0600
From: cjo@hsonline.net (Connie Jo Ozinga)
Subject: Misc singer stuff
I originally mailed this to the list a few weeks ago, but haven't seen it
appear. I am sending it again in response to today's discussion of history
and biography of Singer.
I was browsing through a pile of new publisher's catalog at work today and I
found a listing for the following, thought I would share it with the list.
"Singer and The Sewing Machine: A capitalist Romance" by Ruth Brandon,
Kodansha Globe (dist in US by Farrar Strauss Giroux) paperback publishing
date July 1996, #13.00. (Orignally published in 1977 by Lippincott)
The blurb reads: ..an entertaining portrait of the man who built an empire
around the sewing machine. As a youth, Isaac Singer had considered a career
on the stage before turning to inventing, and it was his salesmanship and
theatrical flair as much as his ingenuity that made him a millionaire.
Although Elias Howe had demonstrated the first continuous sewing machine,
Singer claimed the invention as his own, adding improvements, promoting it
aggressively--and eventually paying Howe a large settlement for copyright
infringement. [Singer's] private life was equally unconventional: four
marriages, three divorces, a dozen children and a seemingly endless string
of lawsuits. Brandon brings this remarkable character and his world vidily
to life with the narrative skill and command of detail that mark her as one
of today's leading biographers."
Also, note that if you're looking for one of the sewing machine books
mentioned in the list and your local library doesn't list it in its catalog,
they will probably be happy to try and borrow it from another library for
you. Ask about it.
A few weeks ago someone sent a list of citations of older articles about
Singer sewing machines. I have managed to obtain photocopies of most of
them but have misplaced the original list. Please e-mail me directly if you
want more info. Among the interesting tidbits in these articles: Consumers
Research Bulletin for Jan 1953 covers the Singer Blind Stitch Attachment No.
160616; Consumer's Research Bulletin Nov 1949 rates a number of sewing
machings, On the recommended list is Singer Head 66-16, $175 to $212.50,
sewing performance fair, Singer Head 15-91, $217.50 to $260, sewing
performance good, Singer Head 201-2, $252.50 to $295, sewing performance
good, Singer Model 221-1 (our baby) $145, Weight 19 lb.(light) sewing
performance, fair.
A May 1950 article from Consumer's Reports or Consumers union (sorry,
unclear here) rates the Singer 221-1 Featherweight as a superior buy and
notes that is the smallest and lightest machine tested.
I also found this interesting: "Singer is reputed to be the world's largest
maker of sewing machines; but it is a secretive organization, and does not
announce production figures."
----------------------------
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 15:16:18 -0400
From: robsonpj@ra.isisnet.com (Peter J Robson)
Subject: Quilting Magazines in England
Hi Everyone, Greta posted a request for quilting magazines in England and
there are a couple I believe. One is called "Popular Patchwork" and it has a
very good listing of what is going on as well as patterns, shops etc. I can
get it at a local magazine shop here in Halifax.
The National Patchwork Association of Great Britain has there own home page.
You can reach them at
http://www.paston.co.uk/natpat/natpat.html
Or you can e-mail them directly trinity@paston.co.uk
I'm sure they could update you on British publications.
Cheers from snowy Nova Scotia
Barbara
----------------------------
Date: Thu, 1 Feb 1996 09:02:14 -0600 (CST)
From: "Daryl C. Youngman" (dyou@ksu.ksu.edu)
Subject: Sewing Machine Design
In my earlier post, I described a couple of what I thought were obscure,
different machnines. for those of you with an interest, I have located
an interesting magazine article about sewing machine design in general, and
some different styles are illustrated. there are also pictures of some
futuristic "concept" machines that were never put into production, and a
*beautiful* full page glossy color plate of a museum quality Singer
Sphinx machine, I think it's a Model 27 of 127.
Ask at your library (if they don't have it they might be able to get a
photocopy for you:
Title of article: "Singer Design:1850-1985"
Author: Arthur Pulos
Title of Magazine: Industrial Design, Volume 32, page 46-49 May/June 1985
(ISSN:0883-8627) this will help your library borrow a copy if necessary.
Daryl in Kansas
----------------------------
Date: 09 Feb 96 17:14:06 EST
From: Graham Forsdyke (100661.3256@compuserve.com)
Subject: Beware
Hi all, from rainly England.
Noticed a post refering to the book by Jim Slaten and his Singer Dealer Museum.
The book is a joke. Full of information lifted from the Smithsonian publication
by Grace Rogers Cooper and a so-called price guide that is so far off as not to
be in the same ball park.
When the book was reviewed in ISMACS News we refused to give the publisher's
details in case anyone went out and bought it!
And, of course, there is no museum.
There is only one sewing-machine museum in the USA, in Arlington Texas. It's run
by the nicest guy in the world, Frank Smith, who eeks out a living with his
museum.
The Smithsonian displays only a small percentage of the sewing machine
collection and this is dotted around other displays.
If you are ever in the Charlton, Mass area -- on Rt 20 just east of Sturbridge
and west of Worcester, look in at The Simple Machine, a shop run by real
enthusiasts Cathy and Steve Racine who have a small display of antique machines.
They are experts on pre-electronic machines and the business, which is now a
Bernina agency, started with Cathy repairing treadles. Be sure to give her a hug
from me.
---------------------------
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 1996 16:07:08 -0700 (MST)
From: Moller Lisa (mollerl@stripe.Colorado.EDU)
I've noticed that several people are searching for copies of Machine
Sewing: A Treatise, so I thought I'd mention another book for those who
can't find the Pickens book. I have a copy of the Singer Sewing Skills
reference book,published in 1955. It's actually a 56 page booklet which
originally sold for 95 cents. The opening paragraph says: "A family well
clothed and a home well appointed are responsibilities of every
homemaker. To know and to recognize good construction in clothing and
fabric furnishings largely determine how much value is bought with every
dollar spent. Savings are greatest when sewing is done at home,if done
well. The SINGER* Sewing Skills Course is designed to create an awareness
of good quality workmanship and to teach the simple procedures for
attaining better results in sewing."
The book goes on to show how to care for and maintain your sewing machine
and provides detailed descriptions and illustrations of how to use many
of the attachments. My FW manual has instructions on how to use the foot
and adjustable hemmers,the binder,tucker,and ruffler, but this booklet
has instructions on how to use about a dozen more attachments, including
a walking presserfoot,a quilting foot, 3 types of braiding feet, and a
zipper foot. There are also instructons on how to do various techniques
(called Fashion Details in the booklet) and a lesson at the end of each
chapter with several different practice sessions for the student to follow.
----------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 1996 23:46:44 -0500
From: CTislander@aol.com
Subject: A Subversive Book
Help save old sewing machines! If you run across a book
called *How to Make Something from Nothing* by Ruth Stearns
Egge (1968, Coward-McCann, Inc., New York) buy it and keep
it hidden away. This book actually advocates destroying old
sewing machines to make "decorative accessories" from the
parts.
Sample quote: "On looking for junk...don't overlook other
possibilities in wood, such as...old sewing-machine drawers,
and the domed covers from the early machines..." "Treasures
ready for conversion [are]...wheels from sewing-machine
heads...framework for sewing-machine drawers..."
Or, how about this quote: "Treadle Type of Sewing Machine...
old-fashioned sewing machines may soon become true treasures
and exceedingly hard to find. At present there are still a
number of antique machines about -- in attics and basements,
as well as secondhand shops -- and their uses are multiple.
The cast-iron legs are in demand for dressing tables or
plant stands. The drawers, especially those with a carved
design on one side, make very decorative planter boxes....
the rack or framework into which the drawers slide...make
interesting trim.... Sometimes both the left- and right-hand
racks can be salvaged along with the drawers.... Better
still, get a carpenter to shorten the depth of the drawers a
bit; then build them into a compact little set of four to
six miniature drawers. These are stunning when painted....
The early treadle machine had a removable box that could be
locked in place over the head of the machine.... The wall
piece [shown in photo]...was made from such a box. It was
first sawed in two (lengthwise) and half-mounted on a
board..."
I found this book today in an antique collective. I
snatched it up for $1. I will keep this book safe from the
hands of those who might be out to destroy our treasures. I
urge other FWFs to do the same.
I hope you don't take my "review" too seriously. :-)
----------------------------Books about the Featherweight and Sewing
Featherweight Case
========================================
Case Information for the Featherweight
========================================
Date: Thu, 14 Sep 1995 17:04:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: Kristina Santilla santilla@umd5.umd.edu
Subject: Re: FW Fanatics Digest 9/13/95
> my only featherweight is a 1938 model (very early) with an older case (for
> some reason i can't figure out).
I find all the minute differences between the machines facinating.I don't
know what you mean by an older case, but the earliest cases I
know of (early AD) had a hanger inside for the foot to hang on. The piece
on the footpedal that gets pressed down was a knobby metal ring, not a
plastic knob. The earliest case I have (for a later AD) has a green inside
and tray, and gold colored locks. The handles were leather til sometime
between AF & AG. And the lift out trays seem to have disappeared during the
AJ's.
----------------------------
Date: Tue, 26 Sep 1995 11:08:54 -0500
From: jeaysta@mmm.com
Subject: Featherweight info
Saw the item about clips in the FW cases. There are two types of FW cases one
with the lift out tray and one with the tray fastened to the left inside wall.
Both types have a clip which takes an oval shaped oil can. Also on the
inside of the tray are some little hooks. These are for hanging the Singer
screwdriver, which is formed from heavy wire and looks something like a button
hook. I've found both items in antique shops usually the oil can is pricey
and the screwdriver can be found in the "smalls" box with button hooks and
bottle openers.
----------------------------
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 1995 11:15:54 -0400
From: DLanton@aol.com
Subject: Re: FW Fanatics Digest 10/3/95
Karen Nantz was asking if anybody knew of the FW carrying cases....Well, I
just bought one manufactured by C & L Enterprises. It's a padded nylon case
with a double zipper. It also has a zippered front pocket for foot pedal,
book, etc., plus heavy duty handles and a detachable padded shoulder strap.
It comes in red and black, costs $55 plus $5 shipping/handling. I really
like mine and would highly recommend it. Their address and phone number is
as follows:
C & L Enterprises
P.O. Box 289
Quincy, IL 62306
Phone: (217) 222-8910
Fax: (217) 222-6053
Hope this helps!
----------------------------
Date: Thu, 5 Oct 1995 13:20:57 -0400 (EDT)
From: Marilyn Root mroot@freenet.columbus.oh.us
Subject: Soft Case^?^?
Someone was asking where to get the soft case made for FWs. I found an ad
in the current QNM. The price is $55 plus $5 s & h. The address is:
Jean S. Lyle
P.O. Box 289
Quincy, IL 62306
Phone is 217-222-8910.
----------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 1995 01:35:02 -0400
From: LyndaQults@aol.com
Subject: Carrying Cases
I just got back from spending the day at PIQF including 4 straight hours of
"white-gloving"I was disappointed to only see 3 or 4 featherweights for sale.
None of them were very exciting and the least expensive was $450. There were
2 tables for sale, both with metal legs , priced at 400+ incredible. only
one of the machines was scroll faced. But the intereesting thing that I did
find was the "About case. It's a pack cloth padded case with full zipper
designed to open like a bakery cake box so that you dont have to lift the
machine up to get it out of the box. It is also sized so that if you have an
older case, it too will fit inside the carrier. My AG machine case fits, but
my AM case does not. The carrier also has a belt inside to hold your
featherweight securely if you do not have a case. The carrier has 2 pockets
suitable for books, but not for the foot pedal, but thats no problem,because
with the extension folded up in the normal carrying position, there is room
to put the footpedal safely on the base of the carrier. It also has a
shoulder strap as well as handles. I liked it so much that I bought one even
though my cases are in good condition. I figure that when i travel I can use
the extra protection for my treasure and I know that the shoulder strap will
come in handy.
Now, after that glowing review, believe it or not, I am not related to the
manufacturer. I just thought that this was a great product that you might
like to know about. The carriers come in 3 colors, NAVY, PURPLE AND BLACK,
and cost 56.00 the 800# is 441-9168. Please
remember that it will not fit the AM and later cases, but if you have a
machine with no case, this just might be the solution for you. Lynda
----------------------------
Date: Fri, 6 Oct 1995 12:44:09 -0800
From: gjones@ccnet.com (Gordon D. Jones)
Subject: FW's and other Singers
Didn't get this posted yesterday, spent the day at the Pacific
International Quilt Festival in Santa Clara, CA with my Wife. This is one
of the biggest and best of the quilt shows. Lots and lots of beautiful
quilts. The "best of show" was won by a lady I know, who teaches at the
same quilt shop I do. Her prize is a new Bernina of her choice and some
cash.
While I was there, I ran accross another case for Featherweights. This
looks like a well made case, it has soft padded sides, and a stiff bottom
with lots of pockets for accessories. Comes in Navy, purple, and black and
sells for 55.95 plus shipping. Can be ordered from:
A'BOUT
P. O. BOX 2294
MT. PLEASANT, TX 75456
1-800-441-9168
903-572-4109
I also bought an oval Singer oil can for my FW.
----------------------------
Date: Sat, 7 Oct 1995 21:35:42 -0400
From: Silkeee@aol.com
Subject: re: About Case
This case was described in todays (10/6) digest, and is the case I chose to
replace my FW case cause the bottom was falling out. I really like it. I
had the opportunity to compare it to Jean Lyle's case while at the Lancaster
show and felt that it was a better case because of its heavier construction
and padded sides. While a very nice case, Mr. Lyle's seemed more like a
square bowling bag with only one layer of material on the sides. They were
approximately the same money, so I chose the About case. I've been very
pleased with it. Just remember NOT to put your little tray in it on top of
the machine.
Margaret
----------------------------
Subject: FW Case Keys
Date: Sun, 15 Oct 95 1:10:38 -0500
From: Terry Sampson ragdoll@initco.net
-- [ From: Terry Sampson * EMC.Ver #2.5.03 ] --
Several of my FW's were missing the keys to their cases so I took one of the
keys to a locksmith and he was able to pretty closely match the key. A FW
key cannot be "cut" from a blank key. These keys are ordered from a catalog
and come pre-cut. Both locksmiths in my town had the same catalog. One had
the keys in stock for $1.00 each; the other had to order them and said they
would arrive in four days (I'm in Montana). The only difference: The
original key is about 1/3 thicker than the new key. Because of this the new
key fits like one of those cheap keys in children's tin banks, but it works
. Ask for Ilco T60 (that's ilco T60). Take your box with you to make sure
it works. Both locksmiths asked to see my box. If anyone else has info on
keys I'd like to know about it. I have two styles of cases.
----------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 Nov 1995 09:27:56 -0500
From: Calypsew@aol.com
Subject: Replacement cases & FW Prices
Last Christmas, DH purchased a very nice replacement case for me and my FW,
because I take her to classes and wanted to keep my original case in good
condition. He purchased it at the Pincushion Boutique in Davis, CA for $75.
It is a wooden case, the size, shape and weight of the original. The number
for Pincushion Boutique is 916-758-3488. Everytime I take my machine out
with this case, other owners ask me about how to get one. I am sure the
cordura bags are nice, too, but this case is as classy as FW.
----------------------------
Date: Fri, 10 Nov 1995 16:54:55 -0800
From: Lisa Yee Estrada lisa@parcplace.com
Subject: wooden replacement case for Featherweights
Ricki (Calypsew@aol.com) wrote:
> Last Christmas, DH purchased a very nice replacement case for my
> FW, because I take her to classes and wanted to keep my original
> case in good condition. He purchased it at the Pincushion Boutique
> (916/758-3488) in Davis, CA for $75. It is a wooden case, the size,
> shape and weight of the original. Every time I take my machine out
> with this case, other owners ask me about how to get one. I am sure
> the cordura bags are nice, too, but this case is as classy as FW.
I just called Pincushion, and they do not sell these anymore.
However, they are going to find out if they can get them in
stock or let me know who makes them (someone in southern California).
Also, the $75 was a markdown. She believes the original price was
between $125 and $200 (!!!). I'll let the list know more when
I get a call back from them.
Do any of the southern California list members know about this?
I was hoping that this would be my Christmas present but at that
price...
----------------------------
Date: Mon, 20 Nov 1995 16:34:47 -0500
From: mehalick@yoda.swales.com (Kim Mehalick)
Subject: interesting things I learned at the singer line today
2. The Singer customer service gave me the name of a man in Kansas(?)
Andy Fields. His number is 913-566-3788.
He makes both a reproduction wooden case, and a
reproduction table. His cases are wooden, with a handle and painted
black. They sell for $55 plus shipping and handling.
The reproduction tables are $198. They have wooden legs with black enamel
trim and the top is a natural birch top. I have not
seen his stuff, but would love to know if anyone has seen his
case, and if it is worth the money.
----------------------------
Date: Fri, 01 Mar 1996 11:05:08 EST
From: BXTJ10A@prodigy.com ( ALTON DAVIS)
Subject: Featherweight Case Handles
If you need a handle for your Featherweight case a possible source might
be your local music store. We have a music store which sells instruments
to the local high school and they have a guy who repairs the instrument
cases. He comes in once a week to pick up broken cases and leave the ones
he's repaired. He didn't have any handles but let me look through his
catalogs and I found some made of leather that are very close to the
originals. The only problem was that he rarely orders from that company
and their minimum order was $50.00 so I now have 3 extra handles which I
will sell for $12.00 ea. if anyone needs one and can't get it locally. He
also had latches which work just fine but don't look like the originals.
Al in IL
----------------------------
Date: Mon, 18 Mar 1996 20:36:35 EST
From: FRXV68A@prodigy.com (MR J JOSEPH HURRAY)
Subject: Re: FW Fanatics 3/18/96
Hi Fanatics-
For anybody that may not have a carrying case for their featherweight, I
can supply black foreign made cases that are very similar to the original
case. They are leatherette covered and have key-locking latches. Pretty
good quality for the money and quite sturdy. $36 plus shipping.
E-mail to frxv68a@prodigy.com if you would like more information.
----------------------------
Date: Tue, 11 Jun 1996 17:33:29 -0400
From: TJanson280@aol.com
Subject: Featherweight's black box
Hello Fellow FWF's!
I just wanted to tell everyone what I had done to my "black" FW box.
The carrying box that came with my FW machine was totaled out. A real
mess!!! It had sat in a mildew basement for a long time by the looks and
SMELL of it! PHEW!!
Anyway, the black cloth was very loose and barely attached on the edges only.
Amazingly enough though, both the latches and handle were intact.
I've heard that a few people have refinished the wood underneath, so I gave
it a whirle. After ripping (holding my nose at the same time) the mildewy
black cloth off, I had to re-glue most of the box. It had come apart all
over. The bottom was out and the lid fell off, along with a lot of places on
the sides. Each side of the box is made up of about 4 sections of wood in
varying widths and then glued together. The corners are "finger jointed"
(notches that interlock together with the other side corners). This helped
in the re-glueing process.
After glueing, I sanded it well and stained it with "Min-wax" puritain pine
color, painted the inside with black paint, then varnished it. WellAhhhh!!!
I now have a beautiful wood stained box for my FW to reside in.
It really does look nice and smells a whole lot better too! It's not "black"
anymore but heck, it's still my FW box, and now usuable.
So don't give up hope if your FW box is a disaster. I'm here to say "What's
underneath is just as beautiful (if not more!)" :)))
--------------------------
Date: Sun, 06 Dec 1998 07:23:51 -0500
From: Mark & Linda Heminway mljjhem@ttlc.net
Subject: Re: smelly machine
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Cheryl said: I have a featherweight that I love but my family thinks it smells. If I have had it out during the day and put it away before husband comes home, he says he can still "smell" that machine and I haven't even told him I was using it.
>
> This weekend my 12 year old daughter and I are going to a quilt camp and I
> want her to enjoy the sewing time - how can I make my featherweight smell
> "fresh"?
First, leave the machine out of it's case for awhile. Most of the
machines pick up the odor from their cases, I believe it is the glue
used in the cases that creates that lovely smell. Put the case with an
opened box of safeguard soap in a sealed plastic bag aside for at least
three weeks.
Then, if you want to to eliminate the odor from the machine, take off
the plate from the bottom of the machine. You will find a felt like
gasket under that plate. Take it out and trace it onto an old pizza box
or other similar cardboard. Cut out the new replacement gasket and put
it in place of the felt like one. The felt like material can absorb
odors and make the machine smell badly, also the spool felt can absorb
odors as well. You can get replacement spool felt discs at any Singer
dealer. Once you have replaced these felt items, and leave the machine
out of the case for a few weeks, the machine's odor should go from
strong to mild and possibly nonexistent over time. This idea was
suggested to me a long time ago by the late Dale Pickens and it works
like a charm.
I have tried so many methods, in the past, to get my case to smell
better, including airing outdoors, activated charcoal, baking soda,
fabric softener sheets, baking soda, cedar, etc., etc. and nothing works
like the safeguard soap - no other brand seems to do the trick. BTW,
the odor won't leave completely, but I keep the opened box of soap in my
case all the time and it is just "ok" with that. I only put the machine
in the case to transport from one place to another, then it is taken out
immediately once I am at my destination.
One other thing, I saved the original felt gasket from the underside of
my FW, the pizza box remains in place. I sealed it in a zip lock bag
(so it didn't smell up other things) and just left it. I didn't want to
discard any original parts to my machine.
Linda
------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 1997 14:32:48 -0700
From: thimble@silcom.com (Lynn Laughrin)
Subject: FW case odor
I have been following the trail of FW case odor and offer these hints
from my experience. I too am highly allergic to molds and have a violent
sneezing and shortness of breath when opening the FW case, so I am pretty
convinced that white powdery stuff is mold. My guess is that in the
history of these FW cases that most were stored on the floor of a dark
closet until needed. Not likely that the original owners kept the case in
a dry, airy place for too long if the machines were originally purchased
for mending.
(we make much better use of them nowdays!)
POSSIBLE SOLUTION: I wiped the inside and outside of my FW case with Lysol
and put it in the sun to dry. This was not too effective since in near the
beach in SO CA near it is never really "dry". Baking soda had only minimal
effect and did not get rid of the odor.
BETTER SOLUTION: So I came up with the following for mild mold cases based
on a theory about glue.
1.Keep the FW case in a dry upstairs room, up off the floor, with lots of
air circulation. Never in a dark closet or on the floor.
2. Place GEL SILICATE packages in the case when it is closed. I got
several in boxes along with new shoes. These little packages absorb the
moisture inside the case. So far, the odor is greatly reduced and no new
white mold has grown on either the inside or outside of the case in 2
years. The odor is very slight and I can live in the same room with the
case.
3. Perhaps those of you who have had success with other remedies live in
dryer climates for at least part of a year. Near the beach we experience
dampness and fog daily so there is no way to get the case completely dry,
but providing the gel silicate bags seems to do a pretty good job in
creating a better environment for the inside of the case. It might be
better for the machine too as it would cut down on moisture trapped inside
and prevent rust to machine parts.
This is just a guess, but I think the GLUE used in the case construction
is the reason why FW is the culprit. My case has a vinyl cloth on the
inside and that would certainly trap moisture between the box and the
cloth. Hide, rabbit skin,animal hoofs and blood are often used in
woodworking and to "paper" or size canvas. I remembered that in art class
we learned to prepare rabbit skin glue/sizing for our oil paint canvases.
Each can of dry crystals came with a gel silicate package inside and we
were instructed to keep the glue crystals in a dry place. Our instructor
told us that rabbit skin glue (and I would guess this is true for hide or
hoof glues too) tends to mold easily. This type of glue is effective in
sealing the linen canvas from the paint oils and in drawing up the canvas
tight to the frame.
It occured to me that perhaps these older FW cases might be made from
pressed cardboard, wood or pressed sawdust and they may have used this
cheap and effective glue. All the hide glues are still used in industry
and for woodworking, although there are better glues available today.
The glue crystals, prepared with hot water, will deteriorate quickly and
mold when cooled--they must not have been stabilized with an agent to
prevent molds. It is highly likely that these cases were made with animal
glues, but even if wheat paste glues were used, the result would also be
mold formation. Anyway, that's my two cents worth. Hope it helps. --Lynn
Lynn Laughrin (thimble@silcom.com)
----------------------------
From: Sue Arnold sarnold@uclink4.berkeley.edu
Subject: Soft, padded FW Case
Hi,
I just returned from a 5-day weekend (the best kind) with my mini-quilt
group. Four of us transported our FWs by plane. In order to cut down on
weight I put mine into a Rubbermade File box (they fit perfectly), but the
handle is VERY uncomfortable. As I plan to take my machine away for
weekends often, I'd love to locate one of the soft padded cases I used to
see for sale at big quilt shows.
I apologize if I could find this quickly looking at the various web sites,
but if they're still available and someone could let me know where. . .I'd
certainly appreciate it. I haven't kept up with the list for months, so
I'm sorry to ask if I should know where to look.
BTW, I had a wonderful time piecing on my FW--hadn't used it for
years--since I got my Bernina 1130, I guess, but it's heavy!
How to Remove & Re-Install a Tabbed Stop Motion Clamp Washer
In the previous post, we looked at how to remove and re-install the stop motion clamp washer on a potted motor machine. But many other vintage Singers (like the 66, 99, 206, 306 et cetera) will have a different washer, as seen in the photo above. Here's how you tackle that one:
How to Stop the Needlebar from Moving During Bobbin-Winding Mode
When you set your vintage Singer sewing machine into bobbin winding mode, by cranking the stop-motion wheel counterclockwise, the needlebar is supposed to stop running. This is to save unnecessary wear-and-tear on the machine, and prevent you from having to unthread the needle to wind a bobbin.
However, if a few crucial parts of your machine are dirty, the needlebar will continue to move even though you are in bobbin-winding mode. This is easy to fix, and I've made two relevant videos, below, to assist you.
This first video explains the parts of your machine involved in engaging and disengaging bobbin-winding mode. If you are not interested in the mechanics of how your machine works, you can skip this first video (though some of you may find the "X-ray" part that starts at 3:15 in the video to be informative).
This second video, below, is where I show you how to actually fix the problem. The video may seem long, since I'm over-explaining things; but once you understand how to fix this, you will be able to fix this problem in mere minutes.
Note: If your stop motion clamp washer doesn't look like the one in the video, but looks like this one below...
...then click here to see how it goes on.
The oil I'm using in the video is Tri-Flow oil, my favorite. If you cannot find it near you (it's often sold at bicycle shops), here's an Amazon link:
Happy fixing!
Reader Questions: Rewiring a 99?
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| All photos in this entry by Azul from California |
Azul from California writes,
I was excited to discover your motor rewiring series, but I have a model 99, which does not have the potted motor and does involve a light switch. The motor is mounted on the side, as seen below.
What I have is a Singer 99-13 (according to the Sandman Singer identifying page) from 1937 which I picked up off the street. It’s in excellent cosmetic shape, but the wiring is in bad shape and down to bare metal in parts (mostly due to my boyfriend pulling away the corroded/melted bits).
I do know how to solder, and have access to the necessary tools and materials (although not yet, alas, the Chapman screwdrivers). My boyfriend knows how to repair electrical stuff in general, but does not have Singer-specific knowledge, although he’s enthusiastic and unworried about this (“it’s a light” and “it’s a motor,” he says). I did take the machine to a local repair place, where they seemed to think the wiring problem not too bad, they doubted that there was internal damage inside the motor, but of course would have to take it apart to know for certain.
My question is this: Do you think your tutorial, along with general principles of electrical repair, would be sufficient to work on this motor, although it’s not exactly the same type as the one in your tutorial? Or are there Singer specific issues that would make you recommend instead taking it to a professional, to for example avoid electrocution :o), or messing up the machine further? I’m not sure if you’re able to answer that, but thought I’d ask.
First off, congratulations on the free 99! That's an awesome find.
Secondly, good on your boyfriend for pulling off the rotted wiring insulation. I’ve seen sellers completely ignore that, as if hoping it will go away. As you can see, the wiring can easily come into contact with the body of the machine, which is all metal. That’s bad news if left untended.
To answer your question: While electricity is obviously dangerous if not handled properly, there is no Singer-specific issue I can think of that would prevent someone with knowledge of “general principles of electrical repair” from correctly re-wiring your motor.
Because we live in a country where people love to sue each other, I think I cannot just tell you to go ahead and do it. But the "sideboard-mounted" motor on your 99 (I put that in quotes because “sideboard-mounted” is not an official term, it’s just what I call it) is a simple and basic universal motor, the same you'd find on a 66, a 206, a 15-90, or a 201-3. The Featherweight 221 would also have a similar motor, with slightly less power. Bottom line: The principles of re-wiring yours would be the same as in the potted motor tutorial, and at the very least you would not have to deal with the worm removal shown in the potted motor tutorial (though you would still have to deal with brushes, grease wicks, the washer on the armature shaft, et cetera). Your motor simply turns the pulley sticking out of it, which in turn drives the belt, simplifying things a bit.
As long as you competently re-wire the machine in the exact same configuration in which it originally was, and using the proper materials, I would think you'd have no problem; but of course I do not have first-hand knowledge of you and your boyfriend's exact skill levels.
Also be aware that if worse comes to worst, you can buy simple replacement motors and install those on your machine, should you not feel like tackling the job. The reason I wrote the tutorial specifically for the potted motors is because those cannot be replaced with new motors due to their unusual design (i.e. the way that they fit onto the machine).
If you do decide to buy a new motor, I recommend Sew-Classic sewing machine supplies. While I've never bought a replacement motor from them (I always re-wire mine myself, to save money and because I find it satisfying), I've bought many other parts from Sew-Classic. Jenny, the woman who runs the company, is knowledgeable, responsive via e-mail in case you don't know exactly what you need, and has a (well-deserved) great reputation. She’s my go-to person when I need parts.
If you do decide to tackle it yourself, remember to take lots of photos as you disassemble the motor, so you have a reference for re-assembly. And a replacement motor is less than $25, which should take some of the pressure off.
Good luck with it,
- Rain
The Difference Between Domestic & Industrial Sewing Machines (or, How Not to Get Swindled on eBay & Craigslist)
 |
| Guess which one's the industrial. |
There are many eBay and Craigslist sellers selling vintage domestic Singer sewing machines and branding them “heavy duty” or “industrial strength.” Sadly, these sellers are lying in order to fetch higher prices. Beware of these descriptions:
- “Vintage Singer Industrial Strength Sewing Machine”
- “Sews leather!
- “Heavy Duty!”
- “Industrial Grade!”
- "Semi-Industrial!"
Dishonest sellers know that if you put those keywords into any domestic sewing machine ad, naïve people will be fooled and extra money can be made. When I first got into this hobby, I myself was suckered because I didn’t know any better. So now I’m writing this entry to list some facts and prevent future buyers from falling into the same trap.
What’s the difference between a domestic and an industrial sewing machine?
The difference between a domestic and an industrial sewing machine is something like the difference between a regular car and a semi truck.
The basic mechanics are the same--you have an engine that powers wheels, or a motor that powers a needlebar--but the intended applications and method of usage are totally different. That Toyota is designed to get you to the office or the supermarket, or the occasional roadtrip when your spouse needs to torture you with a visit to the in-laws; but that semi will haul multi-ton loads for 10 hours a day, every day, at highway speeds. As you'll see below, a similar difference exists between domestic and industrial sewing machines.
Materials
Domestic vintage sewing machines were designed for housewives of the era. Intended to be a household tool, the machines can handle diverse materials; in the 1940s and ‘50s, the average housewife might be called upon to make everything from clothing to drapery to slipcovers for the couch. She might be sewing something as light as lace, or mending something as heavy as an overcoat. While not necessarily brilliant at any one thing, the domestic machine had to be flexible enough to cover the range.
Industrial sewing machines are intended for use in factories, where people work in assembly lines on highly specific tasks with consistent materials. Some machines are designed to sew shirt cuffs; others are designed to put the waistband on a pair of jeans; still others are designed to attach zippers. Whatever the task, the operator sits there and does that same task over and over again, and the machines are specific to the material weight and the task. An industrial machine is not versatile, but is excellent at performing a few specific tasks.
If you think about it, it’s obvious that a factory making silk bras will have different machine needs than a factory making overcoats. Both will be using industrial machines, and those machines may be completely different from each other. That's why it's pretty dumb if someone says to you, "Hey, you wanna buy an industrial machine? I have an industrial machine!" It's like someone saying "Hey, you need some medicine? I have medicine!" You have medicine, or an industrial sewing machine, that's used for what? If I'm making parachutes and your machine came from a panty factory, it does me no good. I might as well buy cholesterol pills for a broken leg.
Usage
A domestic machine is used for a few hours at a time, and during that usage, it is not running constantly. The sewist puts down a line of stitches, then pauses to adjust the material, insert or remove pins etc., then puts down another line of stitches. It is stop-and-go work and the machine is designed accordingly, with a small motor and standard-sized components.
Let's look at the underpinnings of a 15-91:
 |
| Underside of a typical domestic machine. (Oil bottle for scale.) |
In contrast, industrial machines are designed for factories, and factories make money by running full-tilt. Your average factory worker puts the pedal to the metal and cranks out hundreds or thousands of pieces a day. Accordingly, industrial machines have powerful motors, thicker shafts, stronger bearings, and beefier gears. They use more steel inside than a domestic does.
Let's look at the underpinnings from a Singer 111w155:
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| Underside of an industrial features much thicker, heavier parts. (Oil bottle for scale.) |
Whether specifically designed to sew silk or heavy leather, an industrial machine uses more robust parts than a domestic, because an industrial must stand up to the abuse of long hours of constant high-speed usage.
 |
| Note that the beefy connecting rod, at center-right, looks like something you'd find in a car. |
Motors
While not the end-all be-all, the motor is the most obvious indication that you’re dealing with an industrial versus a domestic machine.
I recently bought the Singer 111w155 pictured up top, which is a true industrial, designed to produce automotive upholstery. Take a look at the motor that was connected to it:
Now look at the potted motor of the Singer 15-91, one of the machines I frequently see FALSELY advertised as “Industrial Strength:”
Let's look at them side-by-side:
Get the idea? Even if you know nothing at all about motors, do you honestly believe the one on the left is capable of doing the same thing as the motor on the right? If so, why would factory owners bother buying the bigger motors?
Most industrials have motors that are 1/2 horsepower or 3/4 horsepower. Your average domestic Singer’s motor isn’t measured in horsepower, it’s measured in amps (short for amperes), a unit of electric current.
Horsepower and amps aren’t easy to compare--it’s a bit like comparing how much money Person A has, to Person B’s earnings potential--but if we put them on a rough scale, 1 amp is equal to approximately 1/10 horsepower.
Some sellers will boast that they’ve outfitted their machines with 1.5 amp motors, which according to them, makes them “industrial strength.” Simply not true. A 1.5 amp motor is still less than 33% as powerful as the smallest industrial motor. So don’t be wowed by impressive-sounding numbers. Plus, as you saw above in the photos of the underpinnings, a more powerful motor alone is not enough to make a machine "industrial."
A Word About Leather
Sellers trying to inflate the capabilities of their machine love to put “Sews leather!” in their description. This is a ridiculous and value-less statement, because leather comes in many different thicknesses and types. The lightest, cheapest garment-weight leather is easy to put stitches in on ANY machine, including those plastic Wal-Mart junk jobs. Bring me the crappiest sewing machine you have and I’ll show you a lightweight piece of leather I can sew on it.
What these sellers are hoping is that you’ll believe that if you buy one of their machines, you’ll be able to make gun holsters and horse saddles with their “Industrial Strength” model 99s. Which is, of course, ridiculous.
Some sellers will go a step further and show photos of their machine sewing through thick leather belts. Folks, I have no doubt you can coax a domestic into temporarily sewing through thick leather. I also don’t doubt you could take the Toyota we saw earlier, tie that trailer to the back of it, and under the right conditions, get it to move. But how far do you think you’ll get? And how well do you think that Toyota’s going to hold up before it breaks down?
Here’s the bottom line: The guy bragging about his machine’s leather capabilities is trying to sell it to you. Wouldn’t you rather learn about leather machines from someone who sews leather for a living and isn’t trying to sell you anything?
If so, the forums over at Leatherworker.net are a great place to start. There’s a section called “Leather Sewing Machines” where people with decades of leather experience discuss different sewing machines appropriate for those tasks. Needless to say, you won’t find anyone raving about “Heavy Duty” model 66s.
A Word About “Heavy Duty”
Apart from the sellers who’ll actively lie to you about their machines’ capability, there are others who misinform you because they just don’t know any better. They find a sewing machine in their grandmother’s attic and figure it’s worth big bucks. They try lifting it and discover it weighs 30 pounds. They figure it’s a “heavy duty” machine because of its heft.
Folks, a domestic vintage Singer is only “heavy duty” in the sense that EVERYTHING from that era was “heavy duty”--meaning “overbuilt.” Today we have fancy software that analyzes machinery parts for manufacturers, to help them calculate the absolute thinnest and cheapest a part can be to get through 10,000 cycles before it breaks. Back then we had no such thing. So we overbuilt everything from sewing machines to refrigerators to cars. Pull the door shut on a ’54 Buick, then pull the door shut on an ’88 Buick and see if you notice anything different.
Because vintage Singers were overbuilt, they will last you a lifetime under the normal use for which they were intended. But that does not qualify them as “heavy duty” machines as that term is popularly understood. “Overbuilt” does not mean “industrial,” and here’s the proof:
Go into any garment factory today (or find one on YouTube) and you’ll see the place is filled with industrial machines, whether old or new, that each cost thousands of dollars. Vintage domestic Singers can be found much cheaper than that and are ubiquitous on every Craigslist from New York to Los Angeles. If vintage domestic Singers were good enough to serve as industrials, then why wouldn’t factory owners just buy hundreds of them and fill their factories with these less expensive, easier-to-repair machines? Do you think factory owners simply enjoy spending more money in this economy, or that they are not smart enough to hire Craigslist buyers? No, the answer is simple: They don’t do that because domestic Singers are not cut out for that kind of work.
How Do These Sellers Get Away With It?
Some of the eBay sellers advertising false industrials have 100% user ratings. If what they are selling isn’t as advertised, how is this possible?
Well, early on I unwittingly bought falsely-described machines from two different sellers that both had 100% ratings. When I became frustrated with the performance of the first, I opened it up and found some problems. I contacted the seller and he offered to refund my money in full. The second machine was listed as having been re-wired. I opened that one up too, and found out it wasn’t re-wired. That seller then claimed he had made a cut-and-paste mistake in the listing from a different machine, and offered to send me a free cabinet (that I wanted) to make things right. So both sellers got to keep their perfect ratings and lived to sell another day. (And I was forced to learn how to re-wire a motor.)
Those are just two possibilities for how a dishonest seller can maintain high eBay ratings. But I'm sure there's more to it. What I suspect is happening is that some users don’t really need industrials, but buy into the hype, the same way we buy Nike running shoes without ever spending a day on the track, or buy impressive-looking 4x4s and never go off-roading. I’m guessing these users have an inflated sense of their needs and buy an overhyped machine, and because they never needed an industrial in the first place, never discover the machine doesn’t live up to the hype. That’s my theory, anyway.
Do You Even Need an Industrial?
If you’re in the market for a sewing machine, ask yourself whether a domestic is fine, or whether you really need an industrial. Above all, don’t get your machine recommendations from the person trying to sell you the machine. Figure out whatever it is you want to do--make women’s handbags, make your own clothes, start a business repairing sails--find other people that have already done that, and ask them what machines are best suited to those tasks. Provided you are friendly, I find that most folks that have built up a lifetime of experience are happy to share it with others.
No matter what it is you want to use a sewing machine for, I can just about guarantee there’s some group of people on the internet that have already been doing it for years. Like that Leatherworker forum I linked to above. Find people with years or decades of experience and learn from their wisdom (and don’t forget to thank ‘em!). While the internet helps enable these false-industrial-sewing-machine sellers, it also empowers us to learn enough to avoid them.
Singer 221 Crinkle and Blackside Sewing Machines
Darla Trenner, has researched and designed a wonderful website about the Singer Crinkle and Blackside Sewing Machines. (Including the 221 machine.) Go check out her site at:
http://home.roadrunner.com/~featherweight/
Gaileee
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